Generators: Test Runs, Spare Parts, and a Safe Cord Plan
Test your generator on a schedule, keep the parts it eats on hand, plan your extension cords ahead of time, and always run it far from the house.
⚠ Carbon monoxide: generators stay outside, far from the house
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a poison gas you can't see or smell, and it can kill within minutes at high levels.[7][1]
- Never run a generator, grill, camp stove, or other fuel-burning device inside your home, garage, basement, crawl space, or any partly enclosed area.[1]
- Never run a generator in an attached garage, even with the door open.[2]
- Place it outdoors at least 20 feet from all doors, windows, and vents, measured from the generator to the building, with the exhaust pointed away.[2][3]
- Opening windows or running fans will not stop CO from building up inside.[1]
- Put CO alarms in central spots on every level and outside sleeping areas.[1] Choose alarms with battery backup so they work when the power is out.[4]
- If you feel sick, dizzy, or weak while a generator is running, get to fresh air right away.[1]
A generator only helps if it starts when you need it and you already know where it goes and what plugs into it. A little routine care and a written cord plan make outage day much calmer.
How much do I need?
Total running watts × 3 for the biggest motor = starting headroom. Add up the running watts of everything you'll power. Then add extra for your largest motor-driven item (like a fridge), since some appliances pull up to 3 times their running power at start-up.[1] Example: lights and phone chargers at 200 watts plus a 600-watt fridge that may surge to 1,800 watts = plan for at least 2,000 watts. To get amps, divide watts by volts: 2,000 ÷ 120 ≈ 17 amps.[1]
Scheduled test runs
Generators that sit unused and unmaintained are a known fire hazard during storms.[6] Start yours and give it a test run before you need it, so you know what to expect.[5]
- Pick a regular test day (once a month is an easy rhythm) and follow the schedule in your owner's manual.[1]
- Run it with some load plugged in, like a work light or a fan, so you're testing more than just the engine.
- Set it up exactly where it will sit in an outage: outdoors, dry, level, and at least 20 feet from the house.[2][5]
- Never run it in rain or wet conditions; an open canopy like a tarp on poles keeps it dry.[1]
Oil, spares, and fuel
- Oil: check it daily or after every 8 hours of use during an outage.[5] Keep at least one extra quart of the oil type your manual lists.
- Spares: keep a spare spark plug, air filter, and pull cord for your model, plus the tool to change the plug.
- Fuel: use the fuel type your manual or label calls for.[1] Turn the generator off and let it cool before refueling; gas spilled on a hot engine can catch fire.[1][6]
Your extension cord plan
Decide now what you'll power, and write it down.
- Add up the watts of everything you'll run (check the label on the back or side). Divide watts by volts to get amps.[1]
- Leave headroom: some appliances draw up to 3 times their running power when they start.[1]
- Plug appliances straight into the generator, or use a heavy-duty, outdoor-rated cord rated at least as high as the total load on it.[1][2]
- Check every cord for cuts and make sure the plug has all three prongs.[1] Replace worn or damaged cords.[8]
- Fridge: run one cord to it. An unopened fridge stays cold about 4 hours; a full freezer holds about 48 hours (24 if half full) with the door shut.[3] That lets you run the generator in shifts.
- Furnace: most furnaces are wired straight into the house and don't plug into a cord. To power one, have a licensed electrician install a transfer switch to code.[1][2]
Never backfeed
Never plug a generator into a wall outlet, including a dryer outlet, to power the house wiring. This is called backfeeding, and it can electrocute utility workers, neighbors, and your own family.[1] The safe way to connect a generator to your home's wiring is a transfer switch installed by a qualified electrician.[1][2]
Checklist
Mistakes to avoid
- Running a generator in a garage, even with the door open
- Setting it up right under a window or next to a door
- Plugging it into a dryer or wall outlet to power the house
- Using thin indoor extension cords
- Refueling while it's running or still hot
- Letting it sit for a year and hoping it starts
Do this this weekend
Wheel your generator to its outage spot, measure 20 feet from the house with a tape measure[2], and mark it. Start it, plug in one lamp, and let it run while you check the oil and write your cord plan on an index card you tape to the handle.
Gear that helps
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- GeneratorsInverter generator (with CO shutoff)Runs a fridge, lights and phones in an outage. Pick one with automatic carbon monoxide shutoff, and only ever run it outdoors, far from the house.Check it (opens retailer site)
- GeneratorsHeavy-duty outdoor generator extension cordA properly rated outdoor cord safely carries power from a generator that's running well away from the house.Check it (opens retailer site)
- Carbon monoxide alarmsBattery-powered carbon monoxide alarmKeeps working when the power is out, which is exactly when generator and heater CO risk goes up.Check it (opens retailer site)
- Fuel cans5-gallon approved gasoline canApproved cans are built to vent and seal safely; label each with the fill date so you rotate it.Check it (opens retailer site)
- Fuel cans5-gallon diesel can (yellow)Color-coded cans keep diesel and gasoline from getting mixed up.Check it (opens retailer site)
- Fuel stabilizerFuel stabilizerSlows the breakdown of stored gasoline so it still starts your generator months later.Check it (opens retailer site)
Sources
- Generator Safety Red Cross
- Generator Safety Tip Sheet NFPA
- Power Outage Safety Red Cross
- Winter Storm Safety Red Cross
- Hurricane Season: Getting a Gas Generator Palm Beach County Consumer Affairs
- Severe Weather Fire Safety US Fire Administration
- Protect Your Family and Yourself from Carbon Monoxide Poisoning EPA
- Appliance and Electrical Fire Safety US Fire Administration
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